Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its profound food heritage and lively culinary scene," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city is hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially defined its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their children do not want to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to explore these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
